[57]Simple White Tafâyâ, Called IsfîdhbâjaThis is a dish of moderate nutrition, suitable for weak stomachs, much praised for increasing the blood, good for the healthy and the scrawny; it is material and substance for all kinds of dishes. Its Recipe:Take the meat of a young, plump lamb. Cut it in little pieces and put it in a clean pot with salt, pepper, coriander, a little juice of pounded onion, a spoonful of fresh oil and a sufficient amount of water. Put it over a gentle fire and be careful to stir it; put in meatballs and some peeled, split almonds. When the meat is done and has finished cooking, set the pot on the ashes until it is cooled. He who wants this tafaya green can give it this color with cilantro juice alone or with a little mint juice. Recipe for White Tafâyâ: Another KindTake the meat of a young, tender lamb, cut it in little pieces and put it in the pot with salt, coriander, pepper, a little onion juice, and what oil is necessary. Put it on a gentle fire and fry it with its oil and spices; then add enough water. Take the fat intestine and offal [reading q.mâ as qumâsh] from the intestines, remove them and tie their lower part and put a peeled, boiled egg in the tied intestine, and put over this balls of ground meat, improved with spices. Then put on top of this another egg, and a morsel of the said meat, until it is full to the top. Tie the mouth and put it in the pot, and finish cooking the tafâ yâ, and when it is done, take out the fat intestine and brown it in a frying pan with fresh oil. Then ladle out the tafâyâ, if you like it covered with beaten eggs or plain, and cut up the offal [the egg-stuffed sausage] with a sharp knife and dot the tafâyâ with the pieces. It must have meatballs and split almonds. Sprinkle it with cinnamon and lavender and present it; and if you wish, make it green with cilantro juice alone [p. 25, verso] or with a bit of mint juice. Recipe for White Tafâyâwith AlmondsCook a white tafâyâ with the meat of a fat lamb, as above, and when the meat is done, take peeled, pounded almonds and put them with rosewater, thicken the cooked tafâyâ with this and it makes it whiter. It is necessary to have meatballs, and this is magnificent and regal. Recipe for Fried Tafâyâ, Which Was Known in Morocco as TâhashastGet young, fat meat and cut it in little pieces. Fry it in a clean pot with salt, pepper, coriander, a little onion, a spoonful of oil and a little water. Stir it until the water is gone, the oil hot, the meat done and browned. This is similar to the preceding. Another Kind of Tafâyâ: the Eastern StyleTake the belly, small intestine, peritoneum, the meat of the chest and the tail and the fatty parts, cut it into the pot and add salt, onion, pepper, coriander, onion, and rue. Put it on the fire after cutting up some belly with meat, and make it into small, well -formed 'usbas [packets or rolls?] and add it to the rest and cook it, and when it is finished cooking, present it, God willing. If this dish is made with vinegar, the result is admirable and is a different dish. [58]Recipe for a Pot-Roast, Good for the Old, the Moist of Body and Moist StomachsTake young, fat meat, cut it small in a clean pot with a little salt, pepper, thyme, a little murri naqî', two cloves of garlic, and enough oil. Place it on a moderate fire and keep stirring it until it is done, and use it. [59]Recipe for Meatballs Used in Some Dishes, such as Tafâyâ, Jimli, and OthersAnd a notable dish might result from
it, God willing. It is very nutritious, quick to digest, fortifying,
good for the scrawny [preceding 5 words not in published Arabic
text] and for the sick [literally, the braying -- the hoarse?],
the aged, and for weak stomachs. Take meat from the shoulder and
the leg of a ram, without tendons or veins, and pound it very hard.
Add a little oil, pepper, cinnamon or lavender, a little onion juice,
a little salt, another little bit of egg and a little fine flour. Making Stuffed IsfunjTake semolina and sift it, and take the flour and put it in a dish. Take water and sprinkle it lightly on the semolina. Then put your hand in it and gather it all up and cover it with a second dish, leaving it until it sweats. Then uncover it and mix it until it becomes like white flour [that is, the durum ground wheat should resemble soft wheat flour]. Throw oil in it, and mix it, and put in leavening and eggs, throw in a measure of five eggs and then mix the dough with the eggs. Then put it in a new pot, after greasing it with oil, and leave it until it rises. Then take almonds, walnuts, pine nuts and pistachios, all peeled, and pound in a mortar until as fine as salt. Then take pure honey and put it on the fire and boil it until it is on the point of thickening. Then take the almonds, walnuts, pistachios and pine-nuts that you have pounded, and throw all this upon the honey and stir it until it is thickened. Then take the semolina dough that was put in the pot, and make a thin, small flat cake (raghîf) of it, and put on it a morsel of this thickened paste. Then take the raghîf with your hand and turn it until it is smooth and round and bite-sized. [This sentence is in Huici-Miranda's Spanish translation but not in the published Arabic text] Make all the dough according to this recipe, until the filling is used up. The dough should be only moderately thin. Then take a frying pan and put oil in it, and when it starts to boil, throw in a piece of isfunj and fry it with a gentle fire until it is done. And if you wish to thicken with sugar, do so, and if you with to throw almonds, ground sugar, and rosewater into the filling, do so and it will come out aromatic and agreeable. Mujabbana (Cheese Pie) of Ruqâq (Thin Flatbread)Knead flour with a little water, then
complete the kneading with oil. Then make little raghîfs
(flatbreads) from a piece of it, rolled out with a cane, some fifteen
raghîfs, which are put in the bottom of the mujabbana
when it is made. Then gather them and twist them [possibly meaning
twist the edges, sealing them] and puff them up. Then make a
second batch and open them so that they become leaves. When the
cheese is put in it, put a layer of it and one raghîf,
and then a layer and a raghîf, putting inside it about
three of the raghîfs. Crack two or three beaten eggs
over the cheese, [p. 26, verso] and also put some of the
rind of the cheese in the bottom of it [the mujabbana],
as before. Then cover it [viz. a top crust or layer of raghîfs]
and grease it all with eggs, and send it to the bread oven in a
large clay dish in which it is cooked. And if you cook fresh and
clarified butter in it and it cover it a while until it is absorbed,
may it do you much good [or: bon appetit]. A Pie of Pullets or StarlingsKnead dough on the pattern of the cheese pie dough; if you want it leafy (muwarraqa), [good,] and if you want it "abridged" (mukhtasara), [good]. Make a loaf as we have described for the cheesecake. Take chicken or whatever you want, clean it and cook it in a pot with water and salt, and do not overcook it. Pound an onion with cilantro and coriander and pepper; put all this in a ceramic frying pan with some oil, a spoonful of murri and two of oil on the fire and stir until it is done exceedingly. Take two eggs and crack them into the frying pan on the fire and stir it until the broth is clarified. Then take it from the fire, and when it is cool, take the pullets and cut in halves, and put them in the crust already made. Take egg yolks and put them in, cover it with a top crust made for it, garnish it with egg yolks, and put it in the oven in a pot, God willing. A Pie of Sea or River FishKnead dough according to the recipe for cheese pie; and take fish, clean it inside and out, wash it, and drain the water. Take onion juice and cilantro juice and mix in spices, pepper and myrobalan [? hîlaj for ihlîlaj?];[60] beat it in a dish in which has been put a spoonful of murri, another of oil, and four eggs. Put the fish in this dish, cover it with its crust and send it into the oven. He who wishes to make this without spices, makes a pie shell as large as the fish and places the fish in it, throws in plenty of pepper, after greasing it with oil, covers it, and sends it to the oven, God willing. Layered Loaf (Khubza Muwarraqa)Take flour and knead it until it is soft, and add oil so it will be smooth, put in leavening and then take the dough, roll it out, make its edges thin, and fold it, seal [the edges by twisting], and puff it up until the air enters the sides. Then close both ends with your hand and make a thick loaf; put it in a ceramic frying pan and pour in two spoonfuls of oil, and put the fingers over the bread, so that it is oiled, like mudâhan [Andalusian dialect for "oiled"; or possibly mudâhin, literally, the flatterer]. Put the bread in the oven and when it is cooked, put it in a glazed dish; get honey and cook it with some [p. 27 recto] pepper, and pour this over the bread, God willing. Loaf Kneaded with ButterTake three ratls of white flour
and knead it with a ratl of butter and when the mixing is
complete, leave it to rise and make bread from it; send it to the
oven in a dish and when it has cooked, turn it on the other side
in another dish and return it to the oven. When it is thoroughly
cooked, take it out of the oven, then cover it a while and present
it. [61]The Making of QatâifPut a potful of water on the fire until
it boils, and throw in coarsely ground semolina, and cook it on
the fire until it becomes pudding ('asîda). Then take
it out of the pot and put it in a dish; boil honey and pour it on
top, with pepper, and present it, God willing. [62]Sukkariyya, a Sugar Dish from the Dictation of Abu 'Ali al-BagdadiTake a ratl of sugar and put in two ûqiyas of rosewater and boil it in a ceramic pot until it is on the point of thickening and sticks between the fingers. Then take a third of a ratl of split almonds, fried, not burnt, and pound well and throw the sugar on them and stir it on the fire until thickened. Then spread it out on a dish and sprinkle it with ground sugar. A Sukkariyya from His DictationTake a ratl of sugar, pound and sift. Take a third of a ratl of fresh oil and put it in an earthenware pot, and when it is on the point of boiling, throw in a third of a ratl of white flour and two ûqiyas of breadcrumbs from white wheat or semolina, and stir it two or three times. Throw in the sugar and two ûqiyas of rosewater and scrape it [yuhakk; if not an error for yuharrak, stir it ] until the oil appears as a ring and the fâlû dhaja (pudding)[63] appears combined and coagulated. Take it off the fire, remove the oil and present it, God willing. [64]Khabîsa from His DictationTake half a ratl of sugar and one third ratl of the crumb of bread made of white flour. Pound the sugar and mix with the crumb and put in three eggs. Heat in an earthenware pot half a ratl or less of fresh oil, and when it has boiled, throw in the sugar and breadcrumbs and eggs. Stir it on the fire until it is cooked and intertwined, then leave it and sprinkle it with ground sugar. Khabîsa with Pomegranate [p. 27 verso]Take half a ratl of sugar and put it in a metal or earthenware pot and pour in three ratls of juice of sweet table pomegranates [rummân sufri; probably tart pomegranates were more common in cooking] and half an û qiya of rosewater, with a penetrating smell. Boil it gently and after two boilings, add half a mudd of semolina and boil it until the semolina is cooked. Throw in the weight of a quarter dirham of ground and sifted saffron, and three û qiyas of almonds. Put it in a dish and sprinkle over it the like of pounded sugar, and make balls [literally, hazelnuts] of this. Four-Ingredient KhabîsaTake half a ratl of sugar and throw in three û qiyas of water, boil it on a fire and then add three û qiyas of starch and a third of a ratl of fresh oil. Boil it until the oil spits ["pelts"], and then strain off this oil and pour in some almond flour and take it up, if God wills. A Dish Made with KhabîsTake good, fat meat and put it in a pot with a whole onion and pepper. Dissolve some honey in water and cover the meat with it until it is excessively cooked. Break the khabîs and throw it in the pot and throw it in with some saffron, and when it is done, carry the pot from the fire and leave it until the fat departs, and do not make a dough (a covering) for it. A Dish of EggplantsBoil eggplants and remove its flavor[65] from the upper peel, pound all that flavor and put into a kettle a spoon and a half of oil, two of murri, pepper, caraway, some well-pounded onion, and salt. Put it on the fire and when it has boiled, throw in the pounded egg plants and stir it little by little, and when it is done, cover the contents of the pot with eggyolks and cover them with eggwhites, crumbs and walnuts, and when it is put into a dish, sprinkle it with pepper and cut rue over it. The Making of Stuffed EggsTake as many eggs as you like, and boil them whole in hot water; put them in cold water and split them in half with a thread. Take the yolks aside and pound cilantro and put in onion juice, pepper and coriander, and beat all this together with murri, oil and salt and knead the yolks with this until it forms a dough. Then stuff the whites with this and fasten it together, insert a small stick into each egg, and sprinkle them with pepper, God willing. A Dish Praised in Springtime for Those with Fulness and Those with Burning BloodTake a chicken or taihûj partridge[66] or black partridge or rump of veal, whichever of these is possible, and joint. Put in a pot [p. 28 recto] and put with it cilantro juice, cover it with concentrated ["evaporated"] vinegar, and put in sour apples, peeled and seeded, and their seeds are moderately cut up, and some Chinese cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and white pepper. Then take as much as you like of eggyolk, and beat with it enough to coat the cooked chicken, and cover the contents of the pot with it, and ladle it out. Sprinkle it with some spices and present it, God willing. [67]A Dish of Sikbâj, Praised for its Nutritive ValueTake meat of a young animal, cut it and put it in a pot and put in enough vinegar to cover it, put in raisins depending on how sour you want it to be and boil it with them. Then throw in the necessary amount of pepper and coriander, an onion pounded with cilantro, salt, and a clove of garlic. Cook this until it is done, then take boiled egg yolks and grind them with the heart of clean, soaked bread, and cover the contents of the pot with this, leave it until it is good, empty it out and present it. Recipe for Khubaiz with MeatCut meat from the chest, the kidneys,
the ribs, and the like; put it, after washing it, into a pot and
cover it with water. Throw in two spoonfuls of oil and a ratl
of honey. Then put it on the fire and grind a dirham of saffron
and mix it in. When the meat is done, take it out to the euphorbia
embers [misspelled as "morning"], then take khubaiz
[scribe erroneously writes khabîs, pudding],
pound it and put it in the pot, stir it little by little and when
the khubaiz [khabîs] is done, take it
down to a clay dish, sprinkle it with fine spices, and present it,
God willing. The Making of QâhiriyâtTake sugar and pound sweet almonds well; take equal parts of each in a mortar and mix them and knead them with fragrant rosewater, and perfume them with fine spices, like cinnamon, Chinese cinnamon, lavender, pepper, galingale, and nutmeg. Add these in proportion to what the sugar and almonds can bear. Beat all this well and the kneading will be stronger. Then make small rings of this in the shape of ka'k. Then take a ratl or half a ratl of fine flour or as much as the sugar and crushed almonds can bear, knead it with khubaiz and salt and leave it until it rises. Then take some starch and put into that starch the dough with water. Then take a frying pan and clean it well and put in some fresh oil, and if it is oil of sweet almonds, it is better. Put this on the fire and when the oil boils, take the rings made before, [p. 28 verso] one after another, and dip [reading ghumisat for hummisat] them in that dough and throw them in that boiling oil, so that they cook before they are taken out, and they have begun to brown a very little. Arrange and order them on a dish in an attractive order. Then pour over them skimmed honey from the comb, or well-thickened julep syrup [i.e. rose-flavored sugar syrup], and sprinkle with ground sugar and present it, God willing. The Making of Dafâir, BraidsTake what you will of white flour or of semolina, which is better in these things. Moisten it with hot water after sifting, and knead well, after adding some fine flour, leavening, and salt. Moisten it again and again until it has middling consistency. Then break into it, for each ratl of semolina, five eggs and a dirham of saffron, and beat all this very well, and put the dough in a dish, cover it and leave it to rise, and the way to tell when this is done is what was mentioned before [it holds an indentation]. When it has risen, clean a frying pan and fill it with fresh oil, then put it on the fire. When it starts to boil, make braids of the leavened dough like hair-braids, of a handspan or less in size. Coat them with oil and throw them in the oil and fry them until they brown. When their cooking is done, arrange them on an earthenware plate and pour over them skimmed honey spiced with pepper, cinnamon, Chinese cinnamon, and lavender. Sprinkle it with ground sugar and present it, God willing. This same way you make isfunj, except that the dough for the isfunj will be rather light. Leave out the saffron, make it into balls and fry them in that shape, God willing. And if you wish stuffed dafâir or isfunj, stuff them with a filling of almonds and sugar, as indicated for making qâhiriyât. [68]The Making of Râs Maimûn, Monkey's HeadIt is made with semolina, the same as before to the letter. Add some clarified butter, and to every ratl put in four or five eggs as we have said, and go on beating it continuously with water and butter until all the lumps are gone. Take a new, glazed pot with a belly and a neck, and sprinkle it with oil and butter until it is soaked. Then place the dough in the pot, only to the neck, and take a segment of cane, pierced at both ends, and place it in the middle of the pot, having greased it with clarified butter. Then leave the dough to rise, and the sign that it is done is making an indentation in it, as we have said. .. . [p. 30 recto] And when it rises, send it to the oven, put it far from the fire, and leave it until it is cooked and browned. When it comes from the oven, shake the pot well and carefully to separate the head from it. Then break it little by little so that the shape comes out in its proper form, and if it resists, pour in some honey and clarified butter, and continue being careful with it until it comes out whole, for the intent in this case is that it come out in the form of a human head. Then have care also in removing the cane, and fill the hole with honey and clarified and fresh butter, and put it, just as it is, in a dish and stick peeled pine-nuts and pistachios in it. Then pour melted clarified butter over it, sprinkle it with ground sugar and present it, God willing. [69]Recipe of the Necessities of Bread and ConfectionTake a ratl of wheat flour and knead it with twenty egg yolks, a little water and oil. Then make small, very thin round flatbreads of it, and as soon as they are made, fry them in plenty of oil until they are close to browning. Put them in a dish, boil honey a little and clean it of its foam, and cut almonds and walnuts into the honey, pour it into the dish, sprinkle with sugar, set whole pine-nuts about, and present it. Stuffed Monkey-HeadTake a ratl of wheat flour and
knead it until it is a little soft, then mash it with half a ratl
of clarified butter, water and ten eggs, and beat all this together
gently until it softens. A Dish of PartridgeJoint the partridge after cleaning it and put it in a pot. Throw in half a spoonful of vinegar, a spoon of oil, an eighth of a dirham of saffron, pine-nuts, crushed onion, spices, pepper and a dirham of Chinese cinnamon. Beat meatballs made from another partridge with sufficient salt and water; put it on a moderate fire and when it is done, cover the contents of the pot with four eggs and a little white flour, and take it out to the hearthstone so that the dough wrinkles. Hard-boil two eggs, ladle it out, and garnish it with the meatballs and yolks. Cut up two eggs fine and sprinkle them on the surface of the dish. Sprinkle it with fine spices and present it, God willing. The Making of QâdûsTake the meat of a goat kid, from its
breadth (?) and its stomach, a piece from the navel, from the liver,
and from the tender parts of the meat in the amount of a quarter
ratl. Cut it in small pieces and put them in a pot in which
you have thrown everything that is in jimliyya, to the letter,
and let there not be much sauce. Cook it until the meat is done,
and when it is done, take it to a cutting-board and cut it up fine
as for sanbusak and finer. Put it in a dish and ladle some
of the fat in which you cooked it before, and throw it on top. Then
season it with spices, such as pepper, Chinese cinnamon, galingale,
lavender and the like. Break three eggs over it, beat it well, and
salt to taste. Then take the qâdûs [bucket][70]
and throw in oil, and turn it until it absorbs all the oil, and
get all the yolk of a raw egg and throw it in the bottom of the
qâdûs. Open the lid and bury it in it. Take that
stuffing, as it is, and put it into the qâdûs
over the eggyolk, gently so as not to break the yolk. Keep boiling
it until you think the stuffing has bound and browned well on all
sides; and keep taking care that it not burn and ruin its flavor
and become hard to separate from the qâdûs. Then
take off the lid and pour over the qâdûs the
amount of one spoonful of strong vinegar, and boil it little by
little until its boiling settles down. Then put it [p. 31, recto]
in water until it cools, and turn it over onto a clay dish on its
mouth, and shake it until it comes away from the qadus and
remains stiff in the middle of the lid, with the yolk on top of
it, and present it, God willing. A Qâdûs with MeatballsMake meatballs, in the way that they are made,[71] with onion juice, a little cilantro juice, murri and spices. Beat them with eggwhite and then take a small, new pot, put in crushed onion with cilantro, salt, two spoonfuls of vinegar and one of the best murri, pine-nuts, a dirham of Chinese cinnamon, pepper, cinnamon, spices and a little water. Take this to the fire until it boils gently, and then make meatballs of the minced meat and throw them into the pot and boil until most of the water is gone. Cover the contents of the pot with two eggs and breadcrumbs and put on the eggyolk until the stuffing thickens. Then take the qâdûs and put oil on it, and you will have pounded meat well, as prescribed for the meatballs with cilantro juice, and beaten it with water, two or three eggs and a little white flour, put a little of this in the qâdûs and take out the meatballs in the pot and put them in the qâdûs over the ground meat and put on top of the rest of the ground meat. Cover it with a lid and watch the cooking carefully. When it is browned, put the qâdûs in cold water until it has cooled. Then empty it into a dish and throw the sauce and the remaining stuffing over and around it, and cut rue-leaves over it, sprinkle with pepper, cinnamon, and Chinese cinnamon, and serve it. Stuffing Lamb with CheeseEmpty its interior of everything in it, and clean it, and cut off its extremities and put them aside. Then take its small intestine and make small clean 'usbas of it. Turn the large intestine inside out and clean it and cut it small. Then take enough cheese for the lamb, and crumble some of it and prepare as for a mujabbana. Flavor with much pepper, cinnamon, Chinese cinnamon, cilantro juice, onion juice, "eyes" of mint and as many eggs as it will take, and beat gently. And split its pieces of meat like bishmât [?perhaps baqsimat, a kind of crouton or hardtack] or wider. Insert the stuffing into the lamb with the tendons and cut-up gut. Assess its meat [scribe erroneously wrote "salt," as in several other passages] and peel its sides and insert pieces of cheese in it. And put stuffing around them [the pieces of cheese] as well. Beat the remaining stuffing with eggs and add flavorings with cilantro juice and throw on the lamb in a big tajine. Heat the tannur, and when it's hot, remove the coals and put them down on the hearthstone. Sprinkle with a little [p. 31, verso] water, then put the vessel [a container for holding things put in the tannur?] in the tannur and put the tajine in it. Seal the tannur with clay. Open its lower aperture and examine, and when it is browned and done, remove and put in a big bowl and serve. And if it is cooked in the bread oven, it also comes out good. Preparation known as Hashîshiyya, a Grassy DishTake fat meat [from] the neck,
breast, short (?) or shoulder, and cut small and fine. Take the
coarse paunch, large intestine and bowels and cut small, and put
in a pot with onion water, and turn it around in it so that it absorbs
it. And It Might Be Made Another Way |